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Time for a Refresh?
Most hardwood floors need refinishing every 7-10 years with normal use. High-traffic homes or those with pets might need it sooner.
Scratches visible from standing height
Dull, worn traffic patterns
Finish wearing through to bare wood
Gray or discolored areas
Squeaks that weren't there before
You just can't remember the last time they were done
Choose Your Finish
Water-Based Polyurethane
What we use: Bona Traffic HD (our standard) and Loba 2K Supra for premium projects
Advantages
- Bona Traffic HD is rated for commercial high-traffic — the gold standard for residential durability
- Dries fast — light foot traffic in 24 hours
- Low odor, low VOCs — kid-and-pet friendly
- Crystal clear, stays clear — won't yellow over years like oil-based
Considerations
- Higher material cost than oil-based
- Doesn't add the amber warmth some homeowners want
Best for high-traffic homes, families with pets, and anyone wanting their floors to look the same in ten years as they do on day one
Oil-Based Polyurethane
What we use: DuraSeal Quick Coat — the industry-standard professional stain
Advantages
- More forgiving on application — easier to recoat down the road
- Adds rich amber warmth that deepens over time
- Classic choice that matches what's already on most older Charlotte homes
- DuraSeal Quick Coat offers 36 stain colors — the broadest professional palette
Considerations
- Lower abrasion resistance than premium water-based finishes
- Longer cure — 24-72 hours between coats, weeks before rugs go back
- Strong fumes during application and for several days after
- Yellows over time, especially under direct sunlight
Best for matching existing oil-based finish, traditional aesthetic, or when amber tone is part of the look
Sheen Levels
From barely-there matte to high-shine gloss - your choice affects both looks and maintenance.
Matte
Modern, hides scratches best. Very popular in 2024-2025.
Satin
Subtle glow, most versatile. Hides wear well.
Semi-Gloss
More shine. Shows scratches more easily.
Gloss
High shine, traditional. Shows everything.
Dust Containment Matters
Sanding hardwood without containment fills your home with fine wood dust that takes weeks to settle out of HVAC systems and upholstery. Worse, hardwood dust is classified by the IARC as a Group 1 carcinogen — there are real health reasons to take this seriously.
We use the Bona Atomic Dust Containment System — the GREENGUARD-certified industry standard for professional refinishing. Every sander, edger, and buffer connects directly to a high-CFM vacuum that pulls dust at the source, transferring it through hoses to a sealed collection container outside your home. Per Bona's published testing, the Atomic system captures roughly 99.8% of airborne dust before it can settle anywhere in your home.
The end result: your finish goes down on a clean surface (so the coating levels properly), your HVAC isn't recirculating wood-dust for weeks, and your family stays out of harm's way while we work.
99.8%airborne dust captured
Per Bona's published Atomic DCS specifications.
Why “dustless” isn't one thing
Containment quality varies hugely. A shop vac taped to an edger is technically “dust collection” but doesn't come close to a dedicated DCS. When evaluating contractors, ask specifically what equipment they use.
Your HVAC and pets matter
We seal HVAC vents in the work area before sanding starts. If you have pets, we recommend keeping them in a separate part of the home or boarding them for the heaviest sanding day.
How We Refinish Hardwood Floors
From the 1940s red oak in Myers Park to newer construction in Huntersville, Charlotte floors all need the same thing eventually: a fresh start. Here's how we do it — every step, from move-in day to the final walk-through.
01
Preparation
We move your furniture (or work around it — your call). We seal off doorways and vents with plastic sheeting to contain dust. Your home stays livable while we work — most of our Charlotte clients stay home through the whole project.
02
Coarse Sanding
We start with a 36 or 40-grit belt on a drum sander to cut through the old finish and level the wood. This is the heaviest pass — it removes dents, deep scratches, and any cupping that's developed over the years. Per NWFA guidelines, we never start finer than the floor's condition demands; cutting corners here shows in every later step.
03
Progressive Grits
We work up through 60-grit, then 80-grit, removing the scratch pattern from the previous pass each time. NWFA's Sand & Finish Guidelines specify never skipping more than one grit grade — skip too far and the deeper scratches show up the moment finish is applied. We finish with 100 or 120-grit for the final smoothing pass.
04
Edging & Detail Work
The drum sander can't reach the last 4 inches near the wall, or any corner. An edger sander handles those areas, mirroring the same grit progression so the transition between field and edge is invisible once finished.
05
Buffing & Final Inspection
A buffer with a 100 or 120-grit screen ties everything together — drum marks, edger swirls, and any subtle texture differences disappear. We vacuum thoroughly, tack with a microfiber cloth, and walk the floor with raking light to spot anything we missed before any finish goes down.
06
Staining (Optional)
If you want a color change, we apply stain at this point. We'll show you samples on your actual wood — not a chip card — so you know exactly what you're getting. Stain choice matters: an oil-based stain like DuraSeal needs longer dry time, while water-based options let us start the finish coat sooner.
07
Finishing
Two to three coats of professional-grade polyurethane. You choose the sheen — matte for a modern look, satin for classic warmth, or semi-gloss for extra shine. Between coats we screen lightly to give the next coat something to bite, and we let each layer cure properly before walking on it.
08
Final Walk-Through
We walk the floors with you. Point out any concerns. Make sure you're completely happy before we pack up. We also leave you a written care guide tailored to the finish we used — what to clean with, what not to use, when furniture can come back.
Timeline
Most rooms
2-3 days
Larger homes
3-5 days
Walk on floors
Light socks after 24 hours, full cure in 7-14 days
Common Questions
How do I know if my floors can be refinished?
The wood needs at least 3/32" of wear layer above the tongue (NWFA's official cutoff). If your floors have been refinished two or three times already, or if there's deep gouging through to the tongue, they may not have enough wood left for another full sand-down. We'll measure during your free estimate and tell you straight — sometimes a buff-and-coat or partial repair is the right answer instead of a full refinish.
Do I need to move out during the project?
Not usually. We can do one floor or one room at a time so you keep a livable space. You'll want to avoid the active work area for noise and finish-cure reasons, but most Charlotte clients stay in the home for the whole project. If we're doing the whole house at once, you may want to plan a couple of nights elsewhere — we'll give you a clear timeline so you can plan ahead.
How long before I can walk on the floor again?
Sock-feet only after 24 hours with water-based finishes, longer with oil-based. Light furniture goes back after 48-72 hours. Heavy furniture and area rugs need to wait 7-14 days for full cure — putting them down sooner traps the curing finish underneath and you'll see the imprint forever.
Can you match an existing stain color?
Yes, in most cases. Wood ages and finish yellows over time, so a perfect match against years-old finish is harder than starting fresh. We'll test stain on an inconspicuous area or a piece of scrap before committing, and we're upfront if the match won't look right.
Will refinishing get rid of pet stains?
Sometimes — but be cautious of anyone who promises it will. Pet urine often penetrates past the tongue of the board, deeper than we can sand. Mild surface staining usually disappears with a full refinish; older or repeated incidents may need board replacement. We can tell during the estimate by checking moisture and discoloration patterns.
How often do hardwood floors need refinishing?
With normal use, every 7-10 years. Homes with kids, pets, or high traffic often need it sooner — every 5-7 years. The signal is when the finish wears through to bare wood in the highest-traffic paths. Catching it before bare wood shows up means we only need to refinish the surface; waiting longer can mean wood damage that requires more aggressive sanding.
Ready to See Your Floors Like New?
Get a free estimate. We'll look at your floors, talk through your options, and give you a clear price with no pressure.